Day 28-?? Rest Days in Austin

Back in Austin, I am taking a few rest days, and some time to celebrate Jon's 25th birthday! I also have some bike maintenance to do. I am going to try out a new rear rack to see if that helps the shimmy problem.
I haven't decided if I will re-start the trip from Fredericksburg, or ride from Austin to the closest part of the route, and continue from there.

Several people have said that they were unable to comment... so I finally thought to look at the settings, and that should be fixed now! Sorry about that!

Just found an online trace of the route done from GPS info, it is not totally accurate, but it is pretty close. I hope the link works! You can un-check all the other routes except the Southern Tier on the left and it will be less confusing.

Day 27: (Jan 23) Segovia to Fredericksburg 62.16

Odo 4064.6

Got up and did breakfast st the truck stop. The booth I picked must
have been the very most popular one, as the cushion had about a 6"
depression in it where I sat! When I left it was a bit cloudy, but
the wind was favorable. I elected to continue on I10 until the 290
cutoff to Fredericksburg. This was uneventful, although the traffic
was heavier than the previous day. 290 was pretty empty of traffic and
I didn't feel bad taking a lane rather than the rougher shoulder. At
this point I could see showers off to my left, and they were headed
south east. I felt that if I kept up a good pace I could keep ahead of
them and maybe avoid them alltogether. This was only the second cloudy
day in the trip so far. After about 20 miles I passed Harper, and the
rain threat dissapated into just cloudyness. About an hour out from
Fredericksburg I called Sara and made plans to meet at Fredericksburg
Brewing for lunch/dinner, and from there I drove home with them ending
the western phase of the trip.

Day 26: Sonora to Segovia 68.82

Odo 4002.5

A beautiful day, although the wind was not cooperative - it was from
the south, making for a sidewind/headwind. Sometimes, if the road
changed direction just enough, then the wind would be helpful. I am
hopeful that tomorrow when I get to 290 it will be better.
I got to Junction about 2:30, and this works out to be not quite
enough time to get to Fredericksburg. It is close, but would almost
certaintly require some after dark riding. I eat lunch and try to
decide if I should just stay at the South Llano River State Park, or
continue to Segovia, where I know there is at least a cheap motel, or
go on to Harper, where I know I can camp in the city park with no
services. I continue on, and in Segovia there is a small RV park, so I
stay there. It turns out that the RV park is run by the folks at the
motel next door. I go register, and it is 15.90, which seems a bit
steep, it's the same rate the RV'ers pay. Later, after I've set up,
the clerk rides her bike over and refunds $4.00 - in quarters, which
is great because I'm doing laundry!

Day 25: Ozona to Sonora 40

Odo 3933.6

A short day. My butt needed a rest! I woke to find that I had two flat
tires - so I spent a while fixing them, and finding the bits of wire
worked into them. I think each tube needed two patches! Probably the
biggest problem with the interstate is the torn up pieces of truck
tire on the shoulder. These bits contain many pieces of sharp wires
that penetrate bicycle tires. I think about 1+ flats a day will
probably be the average.
Anyway, without the flats delaying me, I probably would have tried for
Junction. The day was very pretty and warm (at least 70degrees)

Day 24: Balmorhea to Ozona 161

Odo 3887.6

Ok, the overall average for the day's ride was 23.3 mph. While that
might sound good, I slowed a lot in the last 30 miles. The first 50
miles was at a pace of 26 mph! The first 123 miles was done at 25.6
mph!
So, you may infer that I had a tailwind. How strong was it? I think it
was supposed to be 20-35 mph. That, however, does not convey my
experience of it. I had a flat, and while working on it, I found it
difficult to stand steady. When I was through, I got on the bike and
just let go of the brakes. 8, 11, 14... 17. In less than a minute I
had gotten to a gentle downgrade, and the bike was going 31! On the
flat, a more pedistrian 24.  Whenever I stopped, it took a significant
effort to hold the bike back, we're talking real leaning into the
wind.
It's worth noting that this distance was done on a generally smooth
road with very gentle grades: interstate 10!
The other thing I have decided is that west Texas is best enjoyed at a
certain speed: the highest possible! In it's defense, many parts have
sweeping vistas that are quite beautiful, and it appears that *every*
day ends in a beautiful sunset, followed by a bright starry sky, the
kind that makes you realize that you haven't really seen the stars in
years, if ever. Kind of like the difference between faux wood finished
particle board, and antique rosewood.

Day 23: Van Horn to Balmorhea 73.63

The 11 Inn, in Balmorhea


Odo 3726.6

Today I decided I would rather skip some of the adventure cycling
route, and get back to Austin a bit sooner. The Adventure cycling
route goes by the Davis Observatory to fort Davis, then down to Del
Rio before heading back to the Austin area. I decided instead to just
ride on I10 til the cutoff towards Fredericksburg. I had already been
riding I10 for a few stretches since sometimes there is no other
route, and it's very smooth and nice except for the noise and dealing
with entry/exit ramps. Being west Texas there are not many entry/exit
ramps, and traffic is less since the I20 split off. Technically, you
are not allowed to ride on interstates, but in west texas, there
aren't a lot of alternatives. Anyway, the wind picks up in the
afternoon, and it's easy getting to Balmorhea.

Day 22: El Paso to Van Horn 116.7

Odo 3653.0

I started out pretty early, and rode thru a lot of agricultural land.
There are many pecan orchards from the Las Cruces area to far east of
El Paso. I'm making good time because of a favorable tailwind, and I
get to the day's goal, Sierra Blanca at around 3:40. The wind is
actually getting stronger, so I decide to try for Van Horn, which is
about 36 miles farther down I10. I get there a little after 5. I
checkin to a rameda limited. The limited seemed to refer to
age-induced inelegence, but it is comfy and functional, and serves
real scrambled eggs rather than the synthetic ones the holiday inn
express had.

Day 21: Las Cruces to El Paso 65.88

Odo 3536.2

Today's route was very flat (until El Paso), and not busy, except that
I saw a lot of cyclists! Starting with a group of 4-5 racing cyclists
passing me (I should have tucked in behind, they were not going too
much faster!), I saw many others headed out from El Paso. About this
time, my freewheel started making its "fall apart" sound, so I stopped
at a Mexican grocery that had about 5 cyclists stopped at it. I ended
up chatting to them a bit while I applied some loktite to the
freewheel lockring. One of the women (who thought she knew me)
recommended a restaurant farther down the route. She said it was safe
to park your bike in the back. I didn't need to eat, but I did want to
use their restroom. When I got there, indeed there were a number of
bikes parked in the back, and the restaurant looked nice, I regretted
not eating there.

Day 20: Caballo to Las Cruces 63.67

Odo 3468.4

Yesterday was hard, and my back is still a little tired. I decide to
take it easy. I wash clothes while eating nuked breakfast sandwiches
at the RV store. Leaving about noon, the conditions are favorable, and
I zip thru nice but forgettable agricultural land to arrive in Las
Cruces about 5. There wasn't really anywhere to eat until Las Cruces -
this seems to be the land of no restaurants! I checkin to an RV park,
lock the bike, and walk to a wine bar and bistro... They have a killer
brownie a la mode!

Day 19: Breathe Inn to Hillsboro? 88.77

The Breathe Inn

Odo 3404.7

Starting out it was a beautiful day, and the only thing that changed
about that was that it got quite cold by the top of Emory pass, about
30 degrees. Progress leaving the Gila wilderness was good, favorable
wind and no climbing, except for a short bit leaving Lake Roberts.





Crossing the continental divide came as a little surprise, as there
was hardly any climbing, I think I was still coming down from the
Gila.

The other side of the divide had miles of downhill, about 15
miles until I reached San Lorenzo, at which the 18 mile climb for
Emory pass started.



The pass had two parts, an initial climb that
ended about 10 miles in, followed by some "flatish" road, which means
downhills and uphills , but no sustained climbing. Then there was
about 4-5 miles of serious, sustained climbing. It was not too steep,
2nd gear stuff, with a couple of stretches I might should have
downshifted for. The scenery on this stretch was nothing short of
magnificent.



Looming sheer walls of rock, beautifully textured. I
would need a super wide lens to capture the feel of that spot!






Suddenly, I'm at the top, and I stop to take a few pictures. Nearly
instantly, my fingers are really cold. I put on some more clothes for
the descent. Then , less than a half mile later, I put on more
clothes, insulated pants, ski mask, toe covers. It is a strong descent
for about 9 miles to Kingston, then just downhill to Hillsboro, where
I wanted to camp. I only had snacks and my "emergency" rations as I
discovered that all the stores in Hillsboro were closed. There is a
couple getting onto a new Harley, so I ask them about the stores, and
they confirm that they all closed at 3. There is a small park. To camp
in, with chemical toilets, so that is an option. The woman on the
Harley offers to make me a couple of grilled cheese sandwiches if I
stay at the park. There is another option, a B&B a little back up the
road. I knock on the door but the lady says they have no rooms. There
is a tinge of guilt in her voice, so I take it to mean that they do
have a room, but I do not match the correct profile for one of their
clients. I say thanks and leave, but I am pissed. I decide I'll ride
to the next town or however farther it takes to find an open store and
a place to stay with showers. I am not entirely irrational, I know it
will be almost entirely downhill the 17 miles to the next town, but it
is just about dark, so I crank up the 4 taillights and my headlight
and start out (and I have been wanting to look at the stars in a
really dark setting!). About an hour and twenty minutes later there is
an RV park at the intersection of 152 and I25. The office is closed
but the restrooms and showers are open. This will do. But I haven't
found my open store, so I continue down the road and just a mile and a
half (downhill! :-) I find a little store. I nuke a cheeseburger, and
buy a drink and some snacks. They have a table inside and I sit down
and eat. The lady who runs the store (and it's associated RV park) is
very nice. There is also an old guy there, and he is the picture of an
old cowboy, and as we talk, it turns out this is exactly the truth.
He's a nice guy, and I should have taken his picture. The lady
suggests I camp at the state park a few miles down the road. I know
it's wrong not to just go back to the RV park, but I go to the park
anyway. It turns out to be closed, starting on that very day! How do
we know these things, and why don't I trust my intuition? It's only
about 3.5 miles back, but I am moving slowly now... Still, the day
ends nicely.

Day 18: Breathe Inn to Gila Cliff Dwellings & back 30.2

Odo 3315.8

So, I set off to do the climb to the cliff dwellings. This is about 20
miles. I have left most of my gear in the motel room, but stuff the
front panniers with clothes and stuff. The day looks perfect, blue
skys and sunny; it doesnt seem like it will actually snow today. It's
very cold as I start out, and right away it's pretty steep. I resolve
not to use the 36 front chainring, but after a fairly short distance I
am forced to use it. As I learn later, the climb going in is about 7
miles, the climb coming back is only 4 miles long.

At the top of the first climb



I get to the cliff dwellings and decide despite misgivings about snow possibilities to
take the one mile hike. It's a beautiful hike, and the site is
inspiring. As I look around, I think I hear thunder, and shortly it
begins to snow, or something that looks kind of like a cross between
snow and sleet - compact, somewhat soft mini snowballs driven by the
wind. It was a beautiful scene. Freaking out about getting back, I
start back down the path. At the bottom the ranger suggests that I go
inside the building and dry my hair before starting back. Then I put
on my rain gear, but the snow and rain has pretty much stopped.


Those black clouds are gonna snow!





On the way back I stop at Doc's and have a cheeseburger and coke, which turns
out to have been a bad idea. Then the return climb starts. I am
forced into first gear almost immediately, for a distance of about .5
mile, and the rest is done in 2nd. How steep is that first section?
Maybe about like jester. As I go up there are some snowflakes. After
about 3 miles of climbing the snow starts in earnest, and I continue
to keep my pace pretty energetic. I am almost at the top, and the snow
is sticking to the road - there are snowey patches... and then my rear
tire starts to slip. I get off and start walking. I am warm, I have
lots of extra clothes to put on, but it could be a long walk. A van
approaches slowly from behind, and he looks at me. I nod yes, but to
what question? He goes on a few yards then stops for me, and we put
the bike in the van and start off. He reminds me of Todd Rundgren, and
he used to race for Motobecane years ago. I like him instantly. We
have a very interesting conversation about his venture making windmill
factories in china. He says they will have about 20,000 windmill
factories there within three years! Anyway, for bragging purposes, I
was within 50 yards of the top when he picked me up! It's too bad I
didn't take any pictures of the snow, but I didn't want to take the
extra time.

Day 17: Silver City to Gila wilderness 27.8

Odo 3285.5


It was a little cold in the morning


climbing from Silver City to Pinos Altos, the continental divide again...

The plan had been to check in to a little motel 1/2 way to the Gila cliff dwellings, drop off most of the gear, and continue to the cliff dwellings, then return to the motel. I did not reach the motel until it was a bit late to do the up and back part, so I cut the day short.





The climb from Pinos Altos and descent to the motel is a wonderful piece of road. It is narrow, no center stripe, and no traffic. You climb through forest canyon, with stretches of switchbacks and some exciting descents. As the guide says, exercise extreme caution. I believe this road is part of the tour of the Gila bicycle race. I suspected this reading the writing on the road, but the motel host confirmed it. He says the climb up from the cliff dwellings (which I will do tomorrow) is the first or second hardest climb in the west. This jibes with the remarks of the guy I met a few days ago headed west. Anyway, the road is beautiful, rewarding, and difficult. There was snow on the ground, but the road was clear and dry. The switchbacks on the descent had dirt on them, however. Some were steep enough that I had to work hard to keep my speed down. The motel is called the Breathe Inn, and I am the only guest!

Day 16: Buckhorn to Silver City 40

Odo 3257.6

After yesterday's intense ride, I decide to take it easy today and set
my sights on Silver City, only 36 miles away. The first 10 miles are
downhill and easy, then it's mixed, and finally some climbing,
crossing the contentinal divide, but it's all easy compared to
yesterday's last pass.



On the way I see a guy riding toward me,
lightly dressed, and we wave. About an hour later he catches up to me
and says hello. His name is Mike X (I'll remember it if i hear it!),
and it turns out that he is a pro racer from Georgia doing some winter
training out of silver city. We chat a little and then he says goodbye
and continues on to SC. I start thinking about touring with my calfee
And minimal weight. I think it would be hard in the winter, but
possible in the summer.

About to descend into Silver City

Day 15: Safford to Buckhorn 78.5

Odo 3216.6

I try to get out early, but 8:45 is the earliest I manage. It's still
the earliest yet , but I was hoping for 8! It's 41 degrees as I leave
town, and there is a light headwind. The first 10 miles are an Arizona
specialty: the stealth climb. After that, I turn onto a new road,
and it's the same story. After about 7 miles, though, it starts
looking like a real climb. I pause, however, to look at the sign for
the Black Hills Back Country Byway. As I coast up to it, bad sounds
come from the freewheel. I have never had a piece of equipment that
wanted to self-destruct as much as this suntour freewheel. I start
trying to think of something I could use to tighten the lockring.
Luckily, a service truck has pulled up for a mowing tractor. It seems
that the raidator must be cleaned often because pollen from some
plants causes the cut grass to stick to it. One of the guys happily
produces a leatherman tool (guaranteed for life he grins) and I tap it
with a rock to tighten the ring. We talk about the usual for a little
while, and they wish me well as I leave. The climb, meanwhile, starts
getting serious after another two miles. After a bit of a grind, it
flattens slightly, and I get into a good groove. After the top, it's an
11 mile downhill, and I'm quickly in a place called 3-way. I eat lunch
at the gas station and get another coke and sandwich at the store.
There are no more stores for the next 40 miles.


The road begins
another "flat" climb for the next 4 miles, then it gets serious. Real
switchbacks, and still some of those optical illusion climbs. Several
times I think the next stretch is going to be downhill, but it never
is. On one of these "flat" stretches I go by the "WWJD Church".



Then in the distance I see the road carved into the side of the mountain.
Is that really 7 miles of climbing away? Traffic is down to one car
per 20-30 minutes. This is the hardest, most rentless climb yet.

near the top, I see I really have climbed a bit!

After I get to Buckhorn, and the last chance for liquor store, they
tell me about how dangerous that road has been. Recently, they said,
the highway dept fixed the guard rail, not looking down the mountain,
and the people who crashed were not found for another two months. I
stay at the Buckhorn RV park; it gets down to 15 degrees. All of my
cokes froze!

Day 14: Globe to Safford 77

Odo 3138.0

Got up about 7:20, and checked that the Hog Heaven Grill was not open.
Went and got my stuff together and left about 8:30 looking for a
suitable restaurant. I wander thru town finally asking a biker chick
where some places were. It was about 10 when I finally left, feeling
like I'd had a month's worth of ham. The ride out of town is fast with
a good tailwind.

That doesn't last much past the Apache casino, then
it's a steady grind into a mild headwind, perhaps 8-14 mph. I notice
the adopt a highway signs are mostly being used as memorials for
deceased people, and the cleanup aspect is completely ignored. The
beercan bounty seems like it would be quite lucerative.

but not every adoption is for a memorial sign


As per usuial
I get to Safford right as it gets dark, and end up at an econo lodge.



They have Internet, and a laundry. I ride to domino's about 1/3 mile
up the street and get a med pizza.

Day 13: Apache Junction to Globe 57.35

Odo 3051.5

Since the bike has never handled so badly in the years past, I assume
that I have done something new to cause this. The only new things I
can think of are the new double taillight and bracket, which stick out
about 3-4" farther behind the rear rack, and the way I am packing up
the tent, sleeping bag, and air matress. In years past I would pack
the tent in it's bag, then wrap the sleeping bag and pad around it,
put the mess into the compression stuff sack, and tighten the straps
to squeeze it all down to a small size. What I was currently doing was
putting the sleeping bag into it's stuff sack, then wrapping the tent
and air matress around it, and putting that into the compression stuff
sack. Going back to the old method appears to have put things right -
I was not bothered with shimmy today. This is hard for me to believe,
but I did notice that putting the tent (the longest item) in the
middle of the bag allowed me to shove it up farther under the saddle.

So I set out at about 11:20, and I'm treated to a tailwind for the
first 12 miles, averaging almost 17 to Florence Junction. At that
point the wind becomes a headwind, and the road starts really climbing
to Gonzales pass.

Just over Gonzales pass

Just outside of Superior I stop at the botinical
gardens and get a book on cactus. Then I take an alternate route thru
Superior, but it's more like riding thru a ghost town.


Superior


Superior


Superior


Finally going
back to the main road, I eat at a very old dairy queen. This has used
up a lot of time, so now the schedule is tight for getting to globe.
Leaving Superior, the road starts climbing in earnest thru ruggedly
beautiful country.


Starting the climb out of Superior


Looking back at the climb so far!

About 2/3rds of the way to Globe I meet another
bicycle tourist! We stop and talk a bit. He started from northern CA,
rode to the east coast, and is now riding back! 8,000 miles so far.
His bike is festooned with fake flowers he picked up from the side of
the road. (and i didn't think to take a pic!) I notice he is wearing
gloves, and he says he's been thru some very cold weather. I sense all
those extra clothes I haven't been using might be useful after all.
About 10 min later I am pulling out gloves and arm warmers, since my
arms are bare under the coat. Descending into Globe, the bike is
handling fine at 25-35 mph,although I am shivering. I eat some fast
food and quickly put on the insulated pants and jacket when I come out
of the restaurant. Unable to find the RV park (it is now fully dark) I
check into a motel which turns out to cost only a dollar more than the
KOA. While riding around I get a sense of the town, and it's pretty
appealing. Lots of restored historic buildings and looking lively.

Day 12: Apache Junction maintenance

The Superstition Mountains at sunset from Apache Junction

Had a new headset installed, but this does not fix the problem.
Obviously, something is different about my setup than previously. I
think the tent, sleeping bag and pad combo that I strap to the top
rack is something I am doing differently than before. The handlebar
bag is also carrying a different set of items. I spend a few hours
trying different configurations to see what sorts of things make a
difference. Camp at the KOA, google for shimmy problems.

Day 11: Apache Junction to Apache Junction 55?

Day 11: Apache Junction to Apache Junction

After getting half way to Globe, the day's destination, I head back to
AJ due to shimmy problems that have intensified to serious levels. I
decide that a new headset will probably fix it - I hope!  I have been
spending too much time trying to ride steady to enjoy the day even
though it was beautiful! Sara is driving past El Paso and I locate a
shop there and she sends it overnight to the local shop. Maybe it will
even work, 50% chance I think. I am staying the night at a motel next
to the bike shop. This is the first cheap motel that I don't like. The
room is 1/2 of a house trailer, and not in such nice shape either.

Day 10: Preoria to Apache Junction 69.5

Leaving Benny's house in Phoenix (Preoria)


The KOA in Apache Junction

Day 10: Preoria to Apache Junction 69.5

It seems crazy to me to ride 70 miles and never leave the city, but
this is the reality of the Phoenix area. This city is so spread out
that there is no comparison to anyplace else i have been. It is also
quite flat. I end up at a KOA which is a bit expensive at $27. I talk
to another camper there, Kevin, for quite a while. Good showers and a
beautiful view of the Superstition mountains.

After riding thru the Phoenix area, it seems to have the highest
concentration of sidewalk cyclists I have ever encountered. I don't
think I saw anyone ride on the street. Traffic is not heavy, drivers
are not hostile, but not friendly either. They kind of want to get
past you and put the whole disturbing scene out of their mind.

Day 9: fix bike day

Day 9: Fix bike day

I find out that one of the mounting hooks for a front panniers is
loose, so I drill out the rivits and replace them with nuts and
screws, and the freewheel is very loose, so I tighten it's lockring. I
am not very happy with that freewheel. The shimmy problem seems
better.

Day 8: rest day

Day 8: rest day

We visit Cosante and the Desert Botinical Gardens.

Day 7: Aguila to Phoenix 70.55

Leaving late as per custom, I head "up" the climb towards Wickenburg.
The grade is mostly imperseptible, except four a few spots, but once
over the top I made good time, arriving perhaps an hour earlier than I
expected. This evening i am staying at a relative's house along with
Sara and Joanna. Tomorrow will be a rest day, and we'll see some
sights together.

Day 6: Quartzsite to Aguila 73

an interesting second hand store on the way to Aguila


The stretch of road I just came from


The stretch I am about to ride!


After a great meal at Coyote Flats Cafe


Got up late, left even later... I actually stopped at an RV sales
place on the way out of quartzsite to look at a spiffy RV built on the
sprinter frame - it was really nice inside, and only about 95
thousand.

The first part of the route was on I10 for about 10 miles. Then we
take hwy 60 toward Brenda, which was kind of another RV town. This
stretch was easy with a slight downhill and helpful side wind. There
are, however, psychological problems with straight roads. For
instance, the 20 mile straight stretch leading into Aguila just would
not go down. Even though I was making good speed (15-20, mostly 17),
there is a sensation of not making progress. Features that seem close,
never seem to get closer, and you obcess about it, which really
doesn't help. Next time, the iPod comes out! Finally I am nearly
there, and the Fairview RV park comes into view. It's $10.61, with
showers and laundry, and even grass for the tentsite. The guy knows
the drill - " which direction are you headed?" east. "going to
Florida?" yep! I ride into town for a grocery, stop at the first one.
It is a Mexican themed grocery; I select my stuff and notice they take
credit cards, which is a bit unusual in these parts. They run the
card, but it doesn't work. For the next five minutes they mess with
the phones and start tracing the wire route, moving stands of
merchandise to get behind them... I didn't want to wait another five
minutes, so I paid in cash. I got the feeling the phone is not used
too much! Continuing on, I eat at Coyote Flats cafe, had an excellent
steak for $10 - I almost wished I was staying another day so I could
get another one! The specials menu said you can cook it yourself, or
we can burn it for you!

Weather, I haven't mentioned it much, but the pattern is cold nights,
perhaps mid 40s, and pretty warm days, usually in the 60s, and sunny.
It's no wonder this is the high season for the desert.

Day 5: Blythe to Quartzsite, 25 miles

Got up late, got off late, talked to people. Went to MCD for
breakfast, and an older guy struck up a conversation, asked me about
the bike,then the usual stuff, then we talked about all sorts of
stuff. I gave him my contact info, the first one to go out! It seems
to me that San Diego area people were not very inclined to talk with
me. At all. Then again, that could be me infulencing the situation.

So back to the hotel to get going! Finally ready at about 10:30. I'm
just gone a quarter mile when I remember some email tasks, so back to
the hotel! I'm sitting against a palm tree with the iPod, and a guy
starts talking to me, asking about the ride. He used to live in Austin
and his father taught philosophy. Turns out that he is the son of Raja
Rao! I had taken a course from Raja Rao! Talked perhaps an hour.

So I left late, but the legs were tired, and I decided to just look at
stuff, and coasted and soft pedaled almost the whole way to quartsite.

Now, people are talking. The lady at Carl's, her husband rides, the
folks at the gas station who took some pictures for me, the people who
saw me riding with the lights (if they can't see you with those
lights, they shouldn't be driving! - two different people said the
same thing!).

Quartzsite, BTW, is sort of an RV city. So much so, I was disappointed when I saw the chamber of commerce, and it wasn't an RV.